Vacheron Constantin Patrimony

Patrimony is the classic dress-watch line from Vacheron Constantin, the Geneva manufacture whose history goes back to 1755. It is modelled on the brand's watches of the 1950s: a round case with a narrow bezel, a clean dial and minimal indications. The complexity of execution is concealed behind outward simplicity, and the thin case slips easily under a shirt cuff.

Patrimony is recognised by its dial. It is slightly domed, and the baton hands follow its curve. The applied markers and hands are in gold matching the case, and a minute track of raised dots runs around the edge. Thinness is measured in millimetres: the 40 mm white gold version with the hand-wound calibre 1400 has a case just 6.79 mm thick.

The collection spans several generations. The earlier models are based on the automatic calibres 1126 and 1127, derived from the Jaeger-LeCoultre 889 and 928. These have 36–37 mm cases, usually with guilloché dials: the Patrimony Power Reserve with power reserve indicator and date, its dual time version, and models with a retrograde date. References 81180 and 86020 were produced under the name Patrimony Contemporaine. The first is a 40 mm two-hander with the in-house hand-wound calibre 1400; the second is the 42.5 mm Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date with the automatic 2460 R31R7. Complicated versions include a retrograde date with moon phase in 42.5 mm white gold and a 41 mm perpetual calendar in rose gold with the ultra-thin calibre 1120 QP, just 4.05 mm thick.

Choose by movement, diameter and case material. Case sizes range from 36 to 42.5 mm: the earlier models wear compactly, the complicated ones are noticeably larger. Cases are in white, yellow and rose gold, and all the models are men's watches.